ALL BLACK GIRLS: WHY DOES MAKEUP MAKE ME GREY?
Hello, and welcome.
As a makeup artist, black skin has always been the toughest challenge. I remember working on models, and the foundation and powder would turn the skin grey. I’d try to use a warmer foundation, but the skin still wouldn’t have the warmth or luster that I wanted it to have. The makeup itself would look great, but there was always that subtle, annoying hint of grey. No one ever said anything, until this past fall. One day, I was assisting a makeup artist in NYC for a fashion show, and the model told the head makeup artist that she felt grey. Oh, man, did I feel like an absolute joke! He told me to use a warmer foundation, and to never, ever use translucent powder on a black girl. Not even the holy grail RCMA no-color powder (that powder still dulls dark skin)! Ever since then, I remember his words and continue to follow his advice.
Here are some products that I have found that work WONDERS to keep the warmth of black skin and get rid of all traces of grey:
This palette is truly a life saver for warmth. For makeup artists, this is a MUST for your kit, and for anyone else, it has all the shades for contouring + highlighting! This palette covers the range of shades, but the only problem is that it doesn't have the intense deep shades (check out the cool palette). They also have a neutral palette, but this palette is the best for warmth, obviously. The texture is creamy and full coverage, and is great for photoshoots and really covers the skin beautifully. FYI, you can buy these shades in singles as well on the Graftobian website.
For all makeup artists that want transportable, beautiful skin-texture makeup, welcome. Face Atelier is a makeup-artist brand with incredible quality. You can use these droppers in your airbrush machine and use them directly on the skin. Talk about saving money! There are also adjuster colors to add undertones to the skin, including more WARMTH. Woo-hoo!
A great, underground brand for black skin. Seriously, your one-stop shop for all undertones and products that work. This brand has many different types of textures and coverages for your skin. And, they have this ah-mazing section that helps you find your skin tone--we all know how hard it is to find our color online! From foundation sticks, to creams, to liquid, Black Opal has your shade.
Yes, Rihanna. Who else just figured out her last name is Fenty? THANK YOU for creating foundations with every single skin undertone. If you aren't looking for a palette, and love a high-end liquid foundation, this is your girl.
Yes, you need to set your face. And yes, you need a good powder!
Oh yes, the infamous Banana powder. All you Kim Kardashian fanatics, welcome to the range of shades Ben Nye has for you. Topaz and Chestnut have warm undertones, and are great, smooth setting powders for the skin. These loose powders come in 0.92, 1.5 and 3.0 oz containers.
If you are an artist, or someone who likes multiple shades, hello! Ben Nye has a pressed powder palette with many different shades for only $50. Great texture, coverage, and a great addition to a kit!
We already were lovin' on this brand, but hey, they have great powders. Foundation powders, pressed powders, and loose powders galore! Also, this brand is the only one I have found that has a translucent/clear powder that doesn't turn grey on dark skin (the Invisible oil blocking pressed powder).
Besides the products, here are some quick tips that I learned for makeup on dark skin:
1. You already know-- NO TRANSLUCENT POWDER!!! Colored powders, please! Even for under eye setting!!
2. If dark skin has discoloration, go toward the darker shade. It ALWAYS looks weird covering dark skin with lighter foundation because you can still see the dark skin under it and then you really aren't achieving the goal of foundation: evening the skin.
3. Focus on highlighting the skin. For fairer skin, highlight is less noticeable, and for darker skin, contour is less noticeable.
4. BLUSH!! Oh. My. Goodness. Does. Blush. KILL THE GAME. On. Dark. Skin. Especially berry and bright colors!
5. Find the right undertone with foundation: blue, red, orange, etc. It will change your life!
Anyways, that is it for the day!
Hope you find the world of WARMTH you have been looking for, friends.